'Tasted: American Vidal Blanc'
Every state in the US produces wine. Why not taste them? We’re doing just that…welcome to the United Slurps of America. It’s our 11th stop on the tasting tour: Hello, Ohio.
Social networking has become key to the coordination of this project (and, surprisingly, it takes a lot of coordination). One state leads to another via recommendations and insights from Facebook friends, Twitter followers, and reactions to previous posts on the Swirl blog. Beyond tasting local wine and in some cases grapes We’ve never heard of (Chambourcin? St Croix? La Crscent?) We’ve also “virtually” become friends with an enthusiastic bunch of fellow wine adventurers.
After slurping Kentucky with Kevin Keith (of the terrific Under the Grape Tree blog) he suggested we contact Michelle of wine-girl.net in his neighboring state Ohio. We looked up Michelle’s blog “My Wine Education,” and were delighted with its insights into local wineries, tasty cocktail recipes, and reviews of all things liquor: bottles, books, and shops. We quickly sent her an email: Want to slurp Ohio with us?
Michelle jumped on board the project and came with a list of recommended wineries: Harmony Hills Vineyards, Kinkead Ridge, Firelands Winery, and St Joseph’s Winery. Next step: contacting the wineries. Nancy Bentley of Kinkead Ridge promptly replied to our inquiry: “What a fun idea! There are people in Ohio that will tell you we are making the best wine (vinifera) in the state…Sadly, all our wine is currently sold out!” Too bad. But great for them…it’s wonderful to hear that small, regional wineries are thriving.
We received no response from Firelands or St. Joseph’s and were getting nervous, but then word came from Bill Skvarla of Harmony Hill. Bill was equally enthusiastic about USA and offered to ship Us some wine. The timing was also propitious as the winery was reopening for the season over Memorial Day weekend and he was pretty sure Michelle and her partner Kevin were going to come by. The timing delayed our post a couple of weeks, but the wait was worth it. (We have come to realize that Our original tagline of “Every state in the US produces wine. Why not taste them? For 50 weeks We’ll do just that…” has become unrealistic. We’re still going to taste every state, but it’s going to take longer than 50 weeks.)
Here are our collective reviews:
Photograph of Harmony Hill Vineyards, taken from a hot air balloon showing vineyard, winery, and entrance to their cave.
“Aria,” Seyval Blanc, Ohio River Valley, Harmony Hill Vineyards 2009 (sample, $12)
She said: Very pale and translucent salmon pink. On the nose: some wood, ripe pear, fruit punch-like. The flavor reminds me of old fashioned fruit salad–the kind that comes in a can with heavy syrup that my hippie mother would never let me eat. It is not as cloying as the canned fruit and has a nice acidity to keep the cloying factor in check. Honey dew melon, tropical. Serve ice cold on a hot day.
He said: Pinkish / Salmon colored. The nose is a cross between a rosé and a Sauvignon Blanc with subtle oak hints of Chardonnay. Not overly sweet (which I suppose is the reason it’s called semi-sweet). Nice acid to counterbalance the sweetness. Maybe a little cloying, but totally nice. Super chilled in the backyard on a hot, sunny afternoon; that’s when I imagine this wine to be perfect.
wine-girl said: First off, this wine is best served very chilled. Harmony Hill is great at making wines that should be enjoyed on their patio or yours on a hot summer day. Once this is chilled down, this is an overall enjoyable wine. There’s a little too much oak for me, but at the same time, if I even see an oak tree, that’s too much oak. I’m probably a poor judge. That said, I sipped it during a party on my patio and it was a huge hit.
“Concerto,” Vidal Blanc, Ohio River Valley, Harmony Hill Vineyards 2008 (sample, $11)
She said: Very pale, almost clear yellow. The nose is not appealing: vegetal, funky, over-cooked green beans. It’s hard to get past. But in the mouth the wine is really lovely: crisp, light, slightly effervescent. It’s a semi-sweet wine, but like the “Aria,” is not cloying. Candy-like fruit flavors, Juicy Fruit gum, and applesauce. Too bad about the funk on the nose, but a delightful wine. I’m will to stop myself from sniffing before I slurp. Which I want to do a lot of.
He said: Gold-yellow corn silk in color. Ugh, weird nose. Vegetal, green beans, funky and gross. It makes me not want to taste this (and We discussed if perhaps the bottle was bad). But, wow, no hint of the nose in the mouth. In the mouth it’s bright and lively. Sweet with just-right acidity. Apples. The only problem is when I smell it while sipping. If the nose wasn’t so strange, this would be my favorite of the bunch.
wine-girl said: Without a doubt, this is currently my favorite HH wine. I know we left with this as a sample, but we also left with a bottle we paid for. We love this. It’s sweet, but not that candy-sweet that a lot of French-American hybrids can have. This is, in our opinion, perhaps the perfect hot-day-patio-wine. It’s full of peaches and pears, and tends to bring on a relaxed happy feeling no matter how hot the afternoon.
“Rubato,” Chambourcin, Ohio River Valley, Harmony Hill Vineyards 2008 (sample, $14)
She said: Very purpley red and opaque. On the nose reminds me of Cabernet Franc–has a hint of vegetables. Also some oak, but more than anything else: cherries. The wine is tart, like unripe plums, some earthiness, baking spices. But mostly tart, dark cherries. The acid is nice and I imagine it would be a great food wine.
He said: Purpley. Nice nose. I could smell it as soon as it was poured. Black cherry and dark fruit abound. It’s a little light in the mouth. Some spice, all black cherry. Long smooth finish. I’ve never had this grape. I just read that Karen mentioned duck (or Kevin did roundaboutly as to not offend) and now I want duck confit with this. Maybe we should go to Canelé tonight. I like this wine.
wine-girl said: Ah, chambourciraminette and vidal. This sets them apart, surprisingly, from many of the local wineries that are focusing (and in some cases struggling) with growing vinifera. If you like French-American hybrids, you’ll enjoy Harmony Hill. I admit we’re partial to this wine – we helped harvest the grapes. It’s got nice spice and black pepper on the mid-palate with a lot of black cherry. The Rubato has a light finish but that seems pretty typical for the chambourcins in the Kentucky / Ohio/ Indiana tri-state region. Kevin thinks this wine would be nice with grilled dark poultry. (I think he’s trying to say “duck” without offending me.)
“Rhapsody,” Cabernet Franc, Ohio River Valley, Harmony Hill Vineyards 2006 (sample, $14)
She said: Ruby, garnet color. On the nose: some mild wood, spices. Tart in the mouth, clean finish. Not a lot of fruit anywhere; the wine seems to be mostly about structure. Maybe elderberry? Can’t quite place it. That said, very enjoyable in its texture and acidity. Another good food wine.
He said: Red-maroon, totally different looking from the Chambourcin. Berries on the nose. This one is also light in the mouth. Nice, totally drinkable but hard for me to decipher. Cherries and berries. The bottle lists “black currant” and I realize that is another flavor I can’t really recall. An enjoyable bottle.
wine-girl said: This is a cabernet franc that really surprised me. I’m not really a fan of cab franc, but I enjoy this one. It’s got a lot of big fruit up front, almost assaulting you. The finish has a lot of sour (maybe bitter?) cherry. Happily, there is very little greenness, which makes this an approachable cab franc. It has light tannins and is really drinkable right now. We tend to take out time getting to wines, and I wouldn’t worry about the drinkability of this wine if it took us a year to get to it.
11 down, 39 to go…
wine-girl said: HH is great because the winery itself is all about atmosphere. Kid-friendly, picnic-friendly, and dog-friendly, a great weekend evening can be spent hanging out at the vineyard listening to amazing acoustic music, chatting with other wine & music lovers, and enjoying wine by the glass.
We said: A clink of our glasses to Michelle for tasting along with Us in our slurpin’ tour. Her Memorial Day weekend winery crawl sounds like a terrific way to relax and enjoy what Ohio River Valley has to offer.
Also, a thank you to Nancy Bentley of Kinkead Ridge. We’re sorry to not have been able to sample Kinkead’s wines, but our palates have been piqued. United Slurps of America: Ohio, part deux?
Finally, a big cheers to Bill and Patti Skvarla and their staff at Harmony Hill Vineyards. These are good folks. We poked around the internet and were delighted to discover that in addition to producing award winning wine (Harmony Hill’s 2008 Rubato took home a Gold medal and the 2007 Refrain took home a Bronze in the 25th Hilton Head International Wine Festival) the Skvarla’s are dedicated to protecting the bucolic countryside of the Ohio River Valley. The National Wildlife Federation has certified a significant portion of their 70 acre property as an official Backyard Wildlife Habitat site, protecting the diverse and abundant wildlife that live live and nest on the property. When our virtual tasting tour becomes an actual one, We’re making it a destination.
(All photos from Harmony Hill’s website…check it out for more sweet shots.)
Previously on USA: Georgia, Iowa, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Mexico, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Texas, Washington
Every state in the US produces wine. Why not taste them? For 50 weeks We will do just that…welcome to the United Slurps of America. Week nine: It’s Massachusetts.
Marco Montez of Travessia Urban Winery was one of the first people We contacted when We began our Slurpin’ USA adventure. Jill of the lovely wine shop domaineLA here in our fine city recommended Travessia (and has blogged about the wine), as did several Twitter friends. Just one week into the project, We sent off an email and Marco quickly responded, “I can certainly ship samples to you. No commitment, you can taste the wine and review them positively or negatively, or don’t review them at all – totally up to you – how’s that for a policy?” Um, that would be a policy We like.
Marco has a wonderful, affable manner that has made him a delight to correspond with over the last couple of months. We asked Amanda Maynard of The Wine-ing Woman if she would be interested in co-blogging with Us. We’ve been following Amanda on Twitter for awhile and admire her great enthusiasm for wine (and the Bruins). She has a lovely, approachable writing style that charms. Lucky Amanda drove down to Travessia to taste the wines (and a barrel sample, a very cool bonus) and then passed on her notes to Us. Here are our collective reviews:
Vidal Blanc, Travessia 2008 (sample, winery sells for $13)
She said: Very pale, clear yellow with a hint of green. Green apple, grapefruit, and wet stones when swirling. In the mouth I initially tasted petrol, minerals, a slight chemical-like flavor, reminding me of a dry Riesling. This gives way to tangerine, white table grapes, ripe pear, honey. The wine is very lush and ripe, but not “sweet,” rather is very refreshing. Really delightful and interesting. Would be a great to accompaniment to a summer picnic on a hot day.
He said: Pale in color, but quite bold on the nose. A lot of Sauvignon Blanc characteristics on the nose, with some pretty strong apple. My first thought upon sipping was “juicy.” There is certainly evidence of residual sugar, but in no way is it overpoweringly sweet. Great acidity that lingers in the finish. This would be a great hot afternoon wine. My favorite of the three. It’s interesting how much Vidal Blanc We have had since we started this USA project. I definitely had not even heard of it, much less tasted it, and I don’t think I have had one I disliked yet.
The Wine-ing Woman said: Vidal Blanc is probably my favorite locally grown grape because of its ability to survive the colder weather along with the similar taste and wine structure to my beloved Riesling. I gotta say, this one does not disappoint. It looked very pale and clear in the glass, but on first whiff, it showed up big. I got a whole lot of everything, but apple and pear showed up to the party pretty early. I’m pretty good friends with them, so I was on board. It smelled really fresh and clean and I was pretty eager to dive in. Then the apple and pear party moved to my tongue. Oh boy. This has some serious structure and acidity which isn’t shy one bit. The fruit is extremely ripe, but not sweet (bonus points!). The finish was kind of like lingering apple juice. Out of the bunch, this was my favorite by far. I’ll take a few more bottles, please.
UnOaked Chardonnay, Travessia 2008 (sample, winery sells for $14)
She said: Golden yellow and bright. Would not have guessed the wine was unoaked if the label didn’t say so….on the nose is plenty of butter and caramel. Flavors of apple, lemon curd, and creme brulee with a mineral background. Fairly light bodied and with mild acidity. Easy drinking and fairly uncomplicated, which is reflected in the reasonable price. Would enjoy as an aperitif.
He said: Bright golden, it looks very much like a Chardonnay. Grassy on the nose, with buttery oak. It’s surprising to me that this is unoaked. Butterscotch-y in the mouth. A little light in the mouth and not much acid…the structure is a little weird, but the flavor is top-notch. If there was a little more weight and zing, this could be a really great wine.
The Wine-ing Woman said: On first look, it’s got a straw/golden color, which is kind of what I’d expect. It is slightly aromatically challenged in comparison to the perfumy Vidal, but I got some good green, planty thing going on. Even though this is unoaked, I did kind of get a buttery thing on the nose, so I don’t know if my brain was tricking me or if it was really there, but it’s absolutely not off-putting (and it’s not present on the palate). The palate was slightly less acidic up front than I had expected and a little thin, but not bad. Having had the previous vintage, that carried more of the acidity that I love so I was expecting something similar. However, it’s still really good. Not exactly my style, but it’s definitely appropriate in many situations. It would be great for beginners that are scared of wine but I think it would also pair wonderfully with some lighter fare (I’m eying a little baked Haddock…).
The Bastard Rosé, Travessia 2008 (sample, winery sells for $14)
She said: Deep salmon, orangey-pink. Fairly quiet on the nose, with some subtle soapy, powdery roses scents. The sweetness is subtle too, although the wine is off-dry. Initially tart in the mouth and then mellows out to a soft finish. The wine is confusing and hard to pin down. Seems out of balance. (And, yes, it’s not my mother’s rosé, as the label claims…she’s more of a Domaine Tempier woman, as am I.)
He said: Interesting color, it almost looks self-illuminated and kind of metallic. Hmm, the nose is difficult for me and it definitely doesn’t smell like any other wine I have ever smelled. Maybe hints of strawberry Jolly Rancher? It’s acidic and tart in the mouth. I had some when We opened the bottle last night and I actually like it much better today. The little bastard has settled down a little. This is a really tough wine for me to describe. I don’t love or hate it, but I prefer the Chardonnay and Vidal Blanc.
The Wine-ing Woman said: I really love this bastard. He’s a little tricky and deceptive, but I’m into it. Let me explain. I popped the wine, poured, and noticed these slight bubbles in the bottom of the glass. None of the others had this, so I was pulled in. The color is kind of pink but more of an orange/copper shade, so right off the bat it’s getting interesting fast. Then, there’s the nose. Depending on what I focus on, I’m getting either bubble gum or a cinnamon and Christmas spice thing going on. Such an interesting side by side bunch of scents. The palate is filled with ripe strawberries and solid acid and structure, but the acid is different than that in the Vidal Blanc. This is like a secret, concealed acid. It didn’t strike me the whole way through, but on the finish, it showed up and left my mouth watering, craving another sip. This bastard, like I said, is deceptive but I’m pretty into how it’s done. It’s my runner up behind the Vidal Blanc.
9 down, 41 to go…
We said: Wow: nine states! Feels like an accomplishment, all this Slurpin’ We’ve done. Big thanks to Marco and Amanda for playing along with Us on this project We love so much…you both were kind and generous collaborators. The Vidal Blanc was delicious. We were marveling about how interesting it was to have a new favorite grape varietal that three months ago We had never even heard of.
So what’s in store for week ten? Yikes, We don’t know yet. It’s easy to get behind on the long distance coordinating, corresponding, and wine buying/sampling. Whew. We’re in talks with some great people in North Carolina, Ohio, Connecticut, Arizona, Arkansas, New Jersey, and Virgina. There is a lot of enthusiasm out there about the project, which has been really gratifying for Us. Thanks for joining Us and, please: join Us! If you live in any of those states that aren’t filled in on the map above and are interested co-blogging, send Us an email, Tweet, or comment your info. It’s fun.
Previously on USA: Georgia, Iowa, Kentucky, Michigan, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Texas, Washington
Every state in the US produces wine. Why not taste them? For 50 weeks We will do just that…welcome to the United Slurps of America. Week seven: it’s Kentucky.
More noted for Bluegrass and Bourbon than wine, Kentucky was one of the states that We had absolutely no idea what to expect. Both of Us being big fans of Maker’s Mark, We knew they could produce a good whiskey. But wine? We didn’t know where to begin. Lucky for Us, Kevin Keith, of the wonderful Under the Grape Tree wine blog, contacted Us a few weeks ago, expressing his interest in the Slurpin’ USA project. He is well versed in all things wine and had great insight on Kentucky. We thought this might be one of the states handcuffed by archaic, inane wine shipping laws, but Kevin got the wines to Us safely (and hopefully legally).
Here are Our takes on the wines, with our terrific co-blogger Kevin chiming in. It’s Our own little 3-stop Kentucky Bourbon Wine Trail, featuring Elk Creek Vineyards, Jean Farris Winery, and StoneBrook Winery.
Vidal Blanc, “Kentucky Blue,” Elk Creek Vineyards 2006 (sample, winery sells for $9.99)
She said: Golden pale yellow color. On the nose: lime, unripe pear, wet stones, green herbs–parsley, and a saltiness. Can you smell salt? I do. In the mouth there is a lot of acid, making it fresh and lively. Again green notes: like fresh cut grass mixed in with the richness of pear. Has a silky, creamy mouthfeel. I imagine this is a terrific food wine with its mix of acid and lush fruit. Reminds me of a fruitier Muscadet or a Picpoul. Can imagine enjoying the wine with oysters, ceviche, sushi, squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta, arugula salads…the wine makes me hungry. Great bargain for $9.99, would buy it by the case for summer–if I could find it in California.
He said: Apple, melon, pear and cut grass on the nose. In the mouth it’s a mix of creaminess and high acid, which I’m not really used to. But, wow, it’s really good. There is also some spice, but not the typical spices; maybe mustard seed or dill. Would be great on a warm day with a salad or seafood in the garden. Really, surprisingly good.
Under The Grape Tree said: Yeah, I know this is sweet. A bit of an indigenous take on Riesling, this hearty white has some honeyed apple and pear notes, some spicy mineral, and a bit of white flower. It has some acidity to it, and of course, what many folks note as a “foxy” character – a bit wild or feral quality, as does most grapes from these parts.
Viognier, Jean Farris Winery 2007 (sample, winery sells for $19.00)
She said: Golden yellow and appears thick on the swirl. On the nose the wine is very floral and rich like peaches and cream and an Orangesicle with some mineral undertones and a big waft of honeysuckle. And is that a hint of corn syrup? We talked it over (breaking our “no talking” rule–yep, We both get corn syrup.) The mouthfeel is lovely, creamy, and viscous. On the palate the wine is very floral with apricot and a dry, stoney finish. Reminds me of burleed grapefruit. There is a nice balance of fruit/acid/minerals. I imagine this is another great food wine. It manages to be rich but with a clean, fresh finish. Love it.
He said: It seems as though every Viognier I am tasting lately is testing my aversion to the varietal. This wine is slightly cloudy and very fresh on the nose. Floral notes, apricot…it smells like Viognier. There is also some heat on the nose and I just looked to see the wine is 13.9% alcohol. In the mouth there is nice acid, again mixed with creaminess, oak is definitely present. It’s very creamy. It’s full-bodied, balanced; whoa, I love it. I’m tasting corn tortilla chips. Odd, but totally there. That said, this wine would be great with Mexican food, maybe even nachos. Exceptional, I totally love it.
Under The Grape Tree said: Not quite that of the Rhone, but the general characters of peach and honeysuckle are present, as is a bit of orange blossom, apricot and mineral. The foxy notes are there too, but with some needed restraint. A surprising white wine with some body and balance.
Cabernet Franc, “Estate Bottled, Ohio River Valley,” Stonebrook Winery 2008 (sample, $couldn’t find price)
She said: Deep, pretty garnet and translucent around the edges. On the nose: minty, green peas and asparagus with smokey cedar notes. Hefty swirls blow off some of the vegetal characteristics. The wine is quite sharp and tart with dark cherry flavors. Has a freshness, but also a chemical note like bing cherry air freshener. The aromatics also remind me of the botanicals of gin. Medium, soft tannins. I thinks it’s a really interesting wine.
He said: Hmm. This smells like Vick’s Vap-o-rub. Mint & eucalyptus with some tobacco thrown in. In the mouth there are flavors of fruit (cherry, blackberry, raspberry) in this very juicy wine. It’s light, but there is some presence in the mouth. Not really into it. I can’t really say that this is a “bad” wine, it’s just not for me. This is another thing I love about doing this project; I am learning about wine in general, but also figuring out which varietals I enjoy from a state I wouldn’t even assume produces wine.
Under The Grape Tree said: Being a huge Cab Franc fan, when good friend Terry Shumrick – winemaker for Stonebrook – told me he had a Cab Franc made from grapes grown in Kentucky, I thought he was crazy. Then he told me the price and I thought he was a lunatic to boot. Though it is not all that tannic, nor does it have a lot of body to it, it is really drinkable, with smooth blue fruit notes and hints of spice and mocha. The tannins are soft but firm, and the finish is really nice. And it is minus all the green bell pepper character you get in a lot of cheap – BAD – Cab Francs out there. This is a really nice find, especially from Kentucky.
7 down, 43 to go…
We said: First off, a big thanks to Kevin for supplying and shipping Us the wines to sample. He also sent Us background information on the wineries and insights into the growing regions of Kentucky. Wineries and Winegrowers of KY: this guy is a great advocate for your state. It was also a treat to share tasting notes with Kevin. We’ve been a fan of his blog long before We started our own. Check it out…frequently.
A note on design: before tasting any of the bottles, We both commented on how much we liked the look of the “Kentucky Blue” bottle. We had a few critiques exchanges on how it could be better, mostly the relationship between the large antlers and the band beneath with the smaller antlers. And this is the point We’d really like to make: We’d show you, our readers, a picture of the bottle and the two others We tasted, but We couldn’t find any bottle shots on the web, which, if you’ve been reading this series, know is a bit of peeve of ours. We want to give our readers a visual–winerys: put Hi-Res bottle shots on your websites! (The images above are from: The Bluegrass Bride, Designs by Lynnea, and dhecker2000–thank you.)
Previously on USA: Georgia, Iowa, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Texas, Washington